A bit of history, or where musk comes from
References to musk can already be found in the Talmud. However, when searching for the origins of this ingredient, one must go beyond the Middle East and continue on to north-eastern China and Siberia. This is the natural habitat of an animal resembling a small deer – the musk deer (Moschus moschiferus). Males of this species have glands near their crotch that produce an intense secretion that attracts females. The English name for musk, which comes from the Sanskrit word muska, meaning testicles, says a lot about the origin of this substance. Musk, highly prized in China and India (where it was believed to have healing and vitality-enhancing properties), was brought to the Middle East by merchants travelling along the Silk Road, whose inhabitants were enchanted by its scent.
All shades (and scents) of musk
The secretion of the musk deer itself has an ammoniacal, intense, animalic scent, different from the musky notes in perfumes. This is mainly due to a substance known as muscone. Only after drying, creating an alcoholic solution and ageing does it gradually develop the notes that are responsible for musk's popularity. Its scent is multidimensional and can be described as animalistic, leathery, earthy and woody. However, everyone agrees on one thing in their descriptions: it is sensual.
The popularity of musk led to the near extinction of the musk deer, which is why in the 1970s, perfume makers began to eagerly reach for synthetic substitutes known as white musk and plants with a scent similar to musk.
A substance with a scent similar to muscone (ambrette musk) was discovered by accident in 1888, during work on... explosives. Over time, other versions were created, collectively known as nitro musks – ketone musk and xylene musk. They exude a pleasant, warm aura, smoother and more subtle than the natural original (you will find them, for example, in the classic Chanel No. 5).
The departure from natural musk led the perfume industry to search for new substitutes. Nitro musks were followed by polycyclic musks combining animal, floral and woody notes (used, for example, in Ralph by Ralph Lauren) and macrocyclic musks, with a scent most similar to natural musk.
It was not only humans who set about recreating the scent of musk. Nature did it too, creating plants such as ambrette, also known in French as ambrette. Its seeds are used to produce an absolute with a musky scent and amber and fruity notes.
The structure of musk perfumes
Musk is a versatile ingredient that can play different roles in perfumes. In base notes, it provides durability and depth. It also acts as a "transitional" ingredient, connecting the heart notes with the base to create a cohesive composition. In addition, white musk can balance more intense fragrance notes, harmonising the whole.
In floral perfumes, musk emphasises the delicacy of jasmine, rose or lily, adding a subtle sensuality and creating a sweet and warm accord. In oriental fragrances, it creates an enveloping base that harmonises with notes of vanilla, patchouli and spices. In men's and unisex perfumes, on the other hand, it is often combined with wood, leather and spicy accords, enhancing their distinctive character.
Perfumes with musk and sandalwood - sensual warmth
The combination of musk and sandalwood is one of the most harmonious combinations in the world of fragrances. You will find it in the base notes of many perfumes, such as Armani Si and Abercrombie Fierce.
Sandalwood, known for its creamy, balsamic character, blends perfectly with the warm aroma of white musk. Together, they add elegance to fragrance compositions and are quite versatile. In the list above, you will find both calmer and more nonchalant fragrances.
Women's perfumes with musk for all year round
Dior Hypnotic Poison (Inspiration No. 69 - Hypnotize)
In Hypnotic Poison, musk provides a backdrop for almonds, vanilla and sandalwood, giving the composition sensuality and durability. It is a warm, oriental fragrance, ideal for autumn and winter evenings, as well as romantic occasions.
Fragrance notes: oriental, floral
For which time of day: evening
Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede (Inspiration No. 79 - Full Moon)
A modern, elegant and subtle fragrance. It combines mineral freshness with the softness of suede. Ozone notes and violet leaves create a refreshing accord, while musk envelops the skin with subtle warmth. All this is seasoned with a pinch of saffron.
Fragrance group: aromatic, amber, woody
For what time of day: day, evening
A fragrance inspired by the East. It is a skilfully balanced composition in which sweet floral notes are balanced by woody notes and smoothed out with white musk.
LANCÔME Idole (Inspiration No. 16 - Ideal)
White musk gives Idole purity and subtle elegance, combining with notes of rose and jasmine. It is a fresh, light fragrance, ideal for spring and summer, especially for everyday occasions and meetings.
Fragrance group: floral, chypre
Time of day: daytime
Armani My Way (Inspiration No. 67 - My Aim)
The musk in My Way enhances the floral notes of tuberose and jasmine, preserving this velvety blend. The fragrance is joyful and fresh, making it an excellent choice for spring and summer, especially for everyday wear.
Fragrance notes: oriental, floral
For what time of day: day, evening
VERSACE Bright Crystal (Inspiration No. 60 - Diamante)
The musk in Bright Crystal adds purity and softness to the fruity-floral composition with notes of magnolia and pomegranate. It is a light, fresh fragrance, perfect for wearing in summer.
Fragrance group: floral, musk, amber
For which time of day: daytime
VICTOR & ROLF Flowerbomb (Inspiration No. 27 - Bouquet)
The musk in Flowerbomb harmonises the sweet floral notes of jasmine, freesia and orchid. It is a sensual fragrance for autumn and winter, perfect for evening outings and special occasions.
Fragrance group: floral, oriental, musky
For what time of day: day, evening
Chanel Chance (Inspiration No. 85 - Destiny)
In Chance, white musk introduces a delicate sensuality to fresh, citrusy-floral accords. The fragrance is versatile, suitable for spring and summer as well as cooler days as an everyday choice.
Fragrance group: citrus, fruity, vanilla, musky
Time of day: daytime
ARIANA GRANDE Ari (Inspiration No. 39 - Cute Girl)
Musk gives Ari a soft, powdery finish, complementing the sweet fruity and vanilla notes. Light and girly, it is best suited for spring and summer as an everyday fragrance.
Fragrance group: floral, musk.
For what time of day: day, evening
YSL Libre (Inspiration No. 15 - La Liberte)
The musk in Libre combines expressive notes of lavender and orange, giving depth to this composition. It is a universal fragrance, suitable for any season.
Fragrance group: oriental, floral
For what time of day: day, evening
Men's perfumes with musk for all year round
Carolina Herrera 212 (Inspiration No. 25 - New York)
The musk in 212 gives the composition freshness and durability, harmonising with floral and citrus notes. Thanks to its light, modern character, the fragrance is perfect for spring and summer, especially as an everyday choice for work or meetings.
Fragrance group: woody, floral, musky
For what time of day: daytime
Tom Ford White Suede (Inspiration No. 29 - Musk & Leather)
In this minimalist composition, musk plays a key role, introducing a powdery elegance that blends with notes of suede and spices. The fragrance is ideal for spring and autumn, especially for lovers of subtle, luxurious aromas.
Fragrance notes: floral, woody, musk, ambergris, leather
For what time of day: day, evening
ARMANI Acqua di Gio (Inspiration No. 41 - Acqua Uomo)
The musk in Acqua di Gio adds a delicate depth, emphasising the marine and citrus notes of the fragrance. Its fresh, light character makes it ideal for spring and summer, especially for everyday, informal occasions.
Fragrance group: aromatic, citrus, musk
Time of day: daytime
PARFUMS DE MARLY Herod (Inspiration No. 53 - The King)
The musk in Herod gives the composition a soft and enveloping character, blending with notes of tobacco and vanilla. It is a warm, sensual fragrance, perfect for winter evenings and elegant occasions.
Fragrance group: aromatic, woody, oriental
Time of day: day, evening
Unisex musk perfume
CREED Millesime Imperial (Inspiration No. 33 - Royal Breeze)
The musk in this composition adds subtlety and delicate longevity, harmonising with marine and fruity notes. It creates a fresh, elegant fragrance that is ideal for spring and summer thanks to its lightness and purity.
Fragrance group: citrus, woody, musk
Time of day: daytime
TIZIANA TERENZI Kirke (Inspiration no. 75 - Virgin Island)
In Kirke, musk gives the composition a sensual, powdery finish that perfectly complements the juicy notes of fruit and the depth of patchouli. It is a universal fragrance that you can reach for in summer as well as in the colder months.
Fragrance group: woody, aromatic, citrus
For what time of day: day, evening
Musk in the base note is the element that binds the sweet and dry richness of this composition, combining with woody and spicy accords. It creates a modern aura that makes the fragrance perfect for both everyday and evening wear. Tokyo Lounge is a universal fragrance, but it may be a little too spicy for summer, while it works great in other seasons.
Fragrance group: aromatic, leather, oriental, musky
For what time of day: evening
MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait (Inspiration No. 83 - French Kiss X)
Musk plays a key role in this luxurious composition, giving the fragrance a velvety depth and sensuality. Combined with notes of amber and saffron, musk creates a lasting, enveloping aura that is perfect for the cooler seasons, such as autumn and winter.
Fragrance group: amber, oriental, floral
For which time of day: day, evening